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Flavorful Kebabs, Biryani along with Much More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on UNESCO's Culinary List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking using the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a paste of flour.

Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.

A Global Honor

Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".

The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.

An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul

The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".

With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.

"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
Succulent kebabs on a plate
Lucknow is renowned for its incredibly tender kebabs.

A Royal Culinary Legacy

The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.

These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.

But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.

More Than Just Famous Dishes

Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.

The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert a winter specialty
The city offers unique seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind airy dessert, when it gets cold.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.

To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall offering masala chai
A legendary tea stall is celebrated for its milky spiced tea.

Ensuring Legacy Continues

The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.

On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.

A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.

JD
By

Jason Davis

Elena Hartwell is a London-based journalist specializing in political analysis and cultural commentary with over a decade of experience.

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