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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.